Welcome Aboard The CG Barque Eagle
|
Click on chart for Eagle's current position
|
Sailing in the Bay of Biscay
|
Looking over the list of port calls before this summer, Cherbourg was on the bottom of the list as far as excitement went. It was surprising then, when it ended up being the most exciting, most meaningful port call to date. Many crew members visits the beaches of Normandy - Omaha and Utah.
All photos are credited: U.S. Coast Guard photograph by Petty Officer Second Class Andrea Rask.
|
18 July 2005
The Coast Guard Barque Eagle, homeported in New London, Conn.
|
Captain's Log by Capt. E. J. Shaw
| |
EAGLE's departure from Cherbourg left an indelible impression on the citizens of the city and on France. Newspaper articles, brochures, and guides featured Eagle, her crew, and cadets prominently. And this in a nation where it is impossible to tell Lance Armstrong competes in the Tour de France, much less dominates it. A careful scan of yesterday's newspaper sports sections failed to find one mention of the American leader. So why is it different for the Mighty Barque? Why is EAGLE given equal bill with the French tall ships Belem and Belle Poule?
Part of it, I believe, is EAGLE's history and its parallels with the Normandy experiences in WWII. The French from this region seem to see EAGLE as having been "liberated" by the Americans just as they themselves were. Part of it is aesthetic. In a land where beauty and culture are so keenly appreciated, EAGLE stands tall among the other ships. While each tall ship puts its best face forward, time and again our visitors commented that our tours, our cadets, our crews, and our ship were somehow just a little more special.
And from that comes the greatest reason Cherbourg and France keyed on EAGLE. It is our people. The French anticipated an American reaction to terrorist threats and recent events in London. In fact, we did react. But working with the U.S. Embassy, the U.S. Navy's Sixth Fleet, the French Navy and other French organizations we were able to reach an Anti-Terrorism/Force Protection (AT/FP) posture that while providing us adequate protection and signaling a deterrence, allowed us to also achieve an hospitable atmosphere. It's truly a difficult balance, and the French people seemed to understand and appreciate our ability to achieve it. Everyone in EAGLE bent over backwards to be the best of guests ashore and the most gracious of hosts on board. French people testified that our officers, crew, and cadets were on their best behavior. They also credited us with striving to accommodate every media interview, photo opportunity, and each special request.
Much of this explains the huge crowd quayside to see us off yesterday. While our departure time coincided with gate opening for the day's festivities, our sailing time was heavily advertised and the festival attendees quickly headed to our mooring to see us off. As we slowly pulled away from the pier and headed for sea, the crowd surged towards the end of the wharf to wave us adieu.
Once clear of the harbor we took the scenic route, passing between the Channel Islands of Jersey and Guernsey. Rounding Brest early this morning EAGLE was finally on a course to take advantage of the westerly breeze. We are sailing full and by across the mouth of the Bay of Biscay, savoring our time in France while anticipating our arrival in Portugal.
18 July 2005 by 1/c Eric Majeska
Seaman Hannah Amos checks for safety from the fore tops during sail stations.
|
|
As cadets and crew relax during the day of holiday routine following getting underway, the stories and adventures from Cherbourg, France begin to spread rapidly throughout the ship. Cherbourg proved to be one of the most popular port calls among the crew with it bringing us our second tall ship festival. Having returned to the language barrier, cadets and crew found it much more difficult to communicate with the French nationals. Some cadets had a little more luck with Sagres II, Eagle’s Portuguese sister ship, using the Spanish they had learned back home at the local Los Rancheros restaurant in New London, Conn. Another sister ship of Eagle, the Mircea of Romania, also attended this portion of the festival. The Sagres and Mircea were moored together across from Eagle, making quite a sight from the pier.
One of the many sights visited by crew and cadets in France was the Eiffel Tower in Paris, which celebrated Bastille Day with a 30-minute fireworks display.
|
|
One of the biggest highlights of the port call was the proximity of Normandy beaches. Since the tour Eagle arranged was maxed out due to such a high interest, many found their own methods to get to the Utah and Omaha beaches. Some signed on for private tours while others rented bikes and rode to the beaches on their own. Regardless of how they got there, it was a moving experience for all those who went, especially the Coast Guard-specific memorials at the Omaha beach memorial cemetery. All around the city were memorial sites and remnants of the events that occurred on D-Day and the months following. Giant craters and blocks of concrete bunkers were still scattered on the cliffs of Utah beach. A church contained both remnant bullet holes and stained-glass windows commemorating paratroopers who died in the streets in front of the church. The entire city was a memorial to the soldiers, many who were no older than the cadets on board.
Crew members lay a wreath at the American cemetery at Omaha Beach.
|
|
The 1/c and 3/c cadets have finally reached the home stretch of their summer deployment. Task lists and requirements are complete and a few days of just enjoying the Eagle experience remain. For most 3/c and 1/c these will be their last four days ever aboard Eagle. While some may not realize it now, these past six weeks of sailing and traveling with 150 of their classmates have created stories and bonds that they will have for the rest of their lives. Myself, along with my classmate Morgan Roy have been writing these logs for the past 11 weeks. This will be my last log and marks the end of my 20 weeks aboard Eagle over the past four years. I have enjoyed writing for you and hope these logs have provided a little illumination for you through the port lights of Eagle and into life aboard the Mighty Barque. Until we meet again, as we say on Eagle, fair winds and royals all the way.
17 July 2005 by 3/c Donatas Siaudinis (Lithuanian exchange cadet)
(L to R) 1/c Gregory Dahl, Boatswain's Mate 2nd Class Illiada Barbosa, and 1/c Jennifer Makowski plot Eagle's position using paper charts out of Cherbourg.
|
|
France was my favorite place of all Eagle ports we have been to so far. It was the first non-English speaking port for my phase. Probably that’s why France was my favorite. 3/c Ben Salem and I went to Paris for three days. The capital of France was amazing with its famous places like the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triumph, and many other sights. I took a lot of pictures, which will always remind me of the good time I had in Paris.
A view of Mount Saint Michael in the gulf of Saint-Malo in northwestern France.
|
|
When I came back to Cherbourg, I visited Sagres II, Eagle's Portuguese sister ship. I spent half of the time with Portuguese sailors. I had a wonderful time with them. I’m sure they had a great time with me as well. Some of the Portuguese sailors were asking about American people because they’d like to go meet them and know them better. Unfortunately, their opinion about Americans and my experience with living with Americans was opposite. However, I explained something about American culture to them and told them my own opinion (which is of course a good one) and they realized that they shouldn’t make a strong opinion about certain people before meeting them and getting to know them better.
17 July 2005 by 3/c Kyle Highfield
Eagle moors port side to in Cherbourg, France, close by creperies and other vendors.
|
|
Looking over the list of port calls before this summer, Cherbourg was on the bottom of the list as far as excitement went. It was surprising then, when it ended up being the most exciting, most meaningful port call to date.
Boatswain's Mate 1st Class Spencer Greer waits to pass the mooring lines to line handlers in Cherbourg.
|
|
Our first day in port, I gave tours to hundreds of people, only a few of which spoke any English at all. This led to some interesting encounters. How do you explain in hand gestures alone why Eagle has three wheels on the helm? It was a lost cause from the start.
I somehow survived, after which I spent a day walking through the area. The real excitement, however, came on the final day. A good friend of mine had duty the day of the “official” Eagle tour of the D-Day beaches and so I had waited to go with him. After almost convincing a rental agency to give us a car even though we weren’t 21, we ended up taking a train to the town of Bayeux, which we explored for a hour or so.
Omaha Beach, the site where more than 2,000 American lives were lost taking the beach.
|
|
We then rented bikes and headed for Omaha Beach, a leisurely 12 miles away. Halfway there, we got a flat tire and made emergency repairs at a nearby gas station. Finally, we arrived at Omaha Beach.
With each passing moment, our awe and respect for the U.S. Armed Forces on that day grew. That anyone survived that terrible approach was amazing; that they continued to come as so many died is beyond comprehension. The cemetery was an emotional experience for both of us. To join those men in the defense of our country today is an honor that we are not worthy to receive.
17 July 2005 by 3/c Sarah Southard
Cadets climb the fore mast in the fog to harbor furl all sails.
|
|
After kindly waving and bidding adieu to the citizens of Cherbourg, France, Eagle's motor took us away from the pier and out to sea once again. Cherbourg proved to be a fulfilling and exciting port call, one that my classmates and I will never forget. I kicked off my time in Cherbourg with tours duty. Although the French/English language barrier caused some misunderstandings, there was nothing a little signing and pointing couldn’t correct. I even learned a little French, my favorite phrase being, “Je ne parle pas francais,” which, translated, means, “I don’t speak French.” That night, I treated myself to crème brulee in true French spirit.
Ships moor closely together in Cherbourg, making a forest of yards, dress halyards, and furled sails above decks.
|
|
My second day in France was spent visiting the memorials of Normandy, France. We visited many historic World War II sites, including Utah and Omaha beaches and the American cemetery next to the beaches. It was a compelling experience, definitely one that I will never forget. Nearly 10,000 American D-day casualties from the Navy, Army, Marines, Coast Guard, Air Force, and Merchant Marine are laid to rest under stark, white crosses and well-manicured lawns. Omaha and Utah beaches were beautiful. It was hard to believe that just 60 years ago one of the deadliest battles of World War II took place on the shoreline there. On my third day in France, my classmate, 3/c Adelaide Perr, and I walked for two and half hours to a quaint French beach. The weather was gorgeous. A little too nice, in fact, when I discovered that I had received a little parting gift--a nice sunburn. All in all, Cherbourg was a great port. There was culture, leisure, great food, and interesting places to visit. I’m sure the rest of Eagle's crew felt the same way.
17 July 2005 by 3/c Ruairi White
A view of many of the tall ships moored next to each other at the end of the Tall Ship's Race.
|
|
Greetings to all who choose to read my ramblings, whether intentionally or not. At this moment I am aboard Eagle preparing to get underway from Cherbourg, France on the final leg of the 3/c cadets’ voyage to Lisbon, Portugal. These past five weeks have been amazing. Sailing aboard the Eagle is truly a once in a lifetime opportunity, especially with the diversity of the ports we have visited this summer. At times cadets get downhearted and cynical about Eagle, counting down the days until we head home. But when we set all sails and all 295 feet of the barque is heeled over, plowing through the seas at 14 knots, it all seems worthwhile.
Captain Eric Shaw and Commander Andrea Marcille drive Eagle into Cherbourg, France.
|
|
This was my first time in France, it is a remarkably beautiful and proud country. We spent a day at anchor before entering the port of Cherbourg. During this time we harbor-furled the sails. For this evolution I was on the fore topgallant yard (second from the top in the bow). No sooner did we start climbing but a thick fog blew in. It was strange, if a little disconcerting, to look down and barely be able to discern the ship below us.
A pond at the American cemetery at Omaha Beach is only a small part of the extensive 170-acres of grounds that are beautifully kept to pay tribute to so many lives lost.
|
|
In France itself, many of us had the opportunity to go on a historic tour of Normandy. This included the cemetery for American soldiers, Omaha Beach, and Utah Beach. It is difficult to express in writing the emotions the cemetery evokes. Looking across the gleaming white headstones stretching into the distance, I felt an awed combination of sorrow, extreme gratitude and pride. It was especially meaningful to be able to visit the graves of several of the Coast Guardsmen buried in Normandy. Many of us were startled to think that most of the soldiers invading on D-Day were no older than cadets. Another thing I noticed was the extreme gratitude the French had towards these American heroes. American flags fly beside French ones on many of the houses in Normandy.
Commander Andrea Marcille speaks at quarters on her last day on board Eagle. Before she left, she was presented by Captain Shaw with a citation for the Meritorious Service Medal.
|
|
I spent much of yesterday on the beach. Before coming to Eagle I spent five weeks in the Caribbean aboard USCGC Venturous, with such port calls as Puerto Rico, the Dominican Republic and Key West. Throughout the whole time I managed to avoid getting sunburned. Then I came to France and what happened? I got sunburned. I spent the rest of the day with the Romanian and Portuguese cadets from our sister ships Mircea and Sagres. We exchanged tours aboard our respective vessels and I will never forget their incredible friendliness and hospitality.
In a week I head home to my family and friends, but for now best wishes from the Barque. Also a "Happy Birthday" to my mom!
16 July 2005 by 3/c Michael Gibson
Seaman Holly Cordero stands ready to strike the jack staff on the bowsprit while moored in Cherbourg.
|
|
Yesterday will stay in my mind for many years to come. Along with two other cadets, I traveled by train to Carenton, France and rented a bicycle to ride the 20 kilometers to Utah Beach. On the way, we were able to help a British citizen who had been ejected from his car. He crashed approximately one minute before we rounded the turn on our bikes and had gone through the windshield when his car flipped. Dave (as we soon learned) didn’t speak French and the bystanders who were trying to help didn’t speak English. 3/c Beck and
Captain Eric Shaw reads departing Chief Boatswain's Mate Timothy Pridham a citation for the Coast Guard's Commendation Medal.
|
|
I kept Dave comfortable and talking while 3/c Lafond was able to translate to the paramedics when they arrived approximately 10 minutes later. After giving them the information they needed, we were on our way again to Utah Beach. After touring the museum, we ate lunch and walked along the beach, which surprisingly to us cadets, was filled with French beachgoers. After a couple of hours at Utah we began our bike ride back to Carenton, which thankfully was uneventful (quite unlike the ride there). We returned our bikes and toured Carenton, sampling their fine French pastries and fruits. We wandered around town for a couple of hours before catching the train back to Cherbourg and back to Eagle. Tomorrow we start our cruise to Lisbon, and from Lisbon, the long awaited summer leave.
The American cemetery, located directly up the hill from Omaha Beach, is the final resting place for 9,387 American soldiers and sailors.
|
|
Chief Boatswain's Mate Jerald O'Brien climbs the rigging on the main mast.
|
|
|
