Fred's Place - The Place To Meet Old Coast Guard Shipmates

Welcome Aboard The CG Barque Eagle
10 July 2005 300 miles northwest of Cherbourg, France Eagle sails into Waterford, Ireland and the crew enjoys Waterford, Dublin, Cork, Killarney, the Dingle Peninsula, and beyond. Who was that kissing the Blarney Stone? All photos are credited: U.S. Coast Guard photograph by Petty Officer Second Class Andrea Rask.	The Coast Guard Barque Eagle, homeported in New London, Conn.

Captain's Log by 1/c Morgan Roy for Capt. E. J. Shaw

The transit up the Suir River into Waterford, Ireland, was a bit tedious with so many bends and turns, and the engine ahead full to beat the strong currents. Once safely moored to the pier, a stone's throw away from a fair complete with rides, cotton candy, and crepes, those who did not have duty set out to explore. Those who stayed close by enjoyed a huge party held for all the crews of the 28 Class A Tall Ships entered in the race from Waterford to Cherbourg. Crews mixed and mingled the best they could, given the language barriers. However, given all the recent worldly events and bombings in London, it was great to see that something as simple as sailing can bring people from all different nationalities together in peace and general admiration of one another.

On board, Eagle held another spectacular reception. All those who attended had a chance to meet representatives from Waterford and other invited guests. Out in Waterford, some crewmembers (by self-admission) spent way too much at the Waterford Crystal Factory. Most were too tempted not to purchase some of the world-renowned crystal from its birthplace.

Some crewmembers with more time off ventured far outside of Waterford. Some went into Dublin to sample Guinness from the factory, view St. Patrick's cathedral, and listen to some great Irish music. Others ventured the other direction into Cork, Killarney, the Dingle Peninsula, and beyond. There they kissed the Blarney Stone in hopes they would get good fortune for the next 20 years (as the legend goes), hiked the Gap of Dunloe, or took a tour of the Ring of Kerry and all the famous Celtic sights.

The last night in Waterford summed it all up. So much to do and never enough time to do it all. With an 11:30 p.m. curfew lingering in the background, most went out to take in the town one last time. The streets were overcrowded with thousands of people coming out to tour the ships and view the fireworks. The pubs were all blaring traditional Irish music. However, the fun could only last so long. Everyone turned in by 11:30 p.m. to rest up for the long day and early 4:45 a.m. reveille the next morning. Everyone returned to the ship sharing stories of their great time in Ireland.

Now, with the Emerald Isle left in Eagle's wake, only fond memories of good times had by all, and the feeling of such a warm reception by the people of Ireland are left behind. The always-too-early sound of reveille was piped, as promised, at 4:45 a.m. Everyone grabbed a quick bite to eat and made preparations to get underway. In all, 28 tall ships made their way down the narrow, winding river on an early Irish morning, making a lovely sight for the thousands of people who also woke up early to get a view of the transit out. Once all ships were out of the river, they made their way to the start line for the race to Cherbourg. However, it was quite apparent that the wind was not going to be cooperative today. So, the crews of all the ships, Eagle included, stood by all day for the wind. Waiting was the name of the game. When the wind didn't come, the race organizers decided to have everyone motor to the next point in the race and to try again on the 10th. Hopefully there would be some wind then.

So, this morning at around 11:30, Eagle crew and cadets joined together again on the teak to give sailing a try. The wind was scant, however, the race did begin. Eagle is now one of 28 tall ships sailing our way to France. Beautiful sights are laid out for all to see on the horizon, with 27 other amazing ships filling the blue horizon with white sail. How lucky we all are.

09 July 2005 by PSCS Pete Vickerman

Cadets on duty in Waterford, Ireland, pose for a picture before getting underway.

WOW! If I had to use a single word to describe our visit to Waterford, that would be it. WOW! I'm a Reserve senior chief and one of the very lucky bunch of Reservists selected to join Eagle on her journey. I had planned to write an entry for the web page at the end of the summer following the story line "The Stories I Could Tell" and give an overview of all of the unbelievable things I'd witnessed. After Waterford I couldn't wait.

I was going to start by talking about Eagle. She’s called many things. Officially, the U.S. Coast Guard Cutter Eagle, she is also America’s Tall Ship. Yes, the USS Constitution is also a tall ship, and she’s still carried on the rolls of the U.S. Navy, but Constitution doesn't sail. The mighty barque does. She’s truly a magical ship that takes us to a place most will never know, showing us things right out of the pages of history. Her crew is the proverbial melting pot of ages, races, ethnic, regional backgrounds, and life experiences found on any cutter, but we’re also a little special in many ways. We’re square-rigger sailors! Few are “selected and directed” to Eagle. We’re here because we wish to be. For some it’s the realization of a long time dream; for others their first assignment out of boot camp. For all of us, it’s a grand adventure. Eagle is a happy ship. Even the bad times are taken with a smile for tomorrow will surely be better.

I was going to say I’ve been onboard since March 1, and that my tour will end when we return to New London in early September. Then I was going to begin the stories. The story of the Captain and the XO who come up with the most outrageous "wind dance" and serve as tireless motivators all while keeping the barque running smoothly with a firm hand on the pulse of the crew. There’s the shy and quiet shipmate who produces the most amazing journal entry and the ones who come straight from boot camp to explode with confidence and enthusiasm while onboard.

The professionalism and confidence of the wardroom (the officers onboard) is enough for an entire chapter, as is the easy-going yet self-assured chief’s mess (the chief petty officers). Sail stations, conducted under the watchful eye of the crew, is a story all on it's own, as are the number of elderly Germans who came to visit the ship of their youth, having served onboard Eagle when she was sailing under the German flag as Horst Wessel. The cadets are another. Many green during their first few days out, most transform into salty sailors anxiously awaiting the chance to go aloft. The ancient and complex language and tools of the rigging become second nature by the time they leave.

Deck force crew-members crowd around departing Seaman Rebekah May on her last day onboard.

Entry into port is an event, as Eagle is escorted in by dozens of small craft and witnessed by hundreds of people on shore. The pride in the Barque is on display, as thousands visit during our port calls, all we need to keep going is the joy and amazement of the people who come to take a look. Our departure is almost as grand as our arrival, as every spot of shore lines with well wishers hoping for one last photo.

One of our more amazing elements is the civilian guests who sail onboard. They are welcomed warmly and become true shipmates. We once had three proud fathers of cadets with us, and it was a joy to watch them share what time they could onboard with their sons and daughter. How many can say they have manned the helm of a square rigger receiving commands from their son or daughter who had the con? Our guests also blossom onboard. Their initial “does it ever stop moving,” soon gives way to a need to experience more and more.

Everything I've mentioned pales in comparison to our visit to Waterford, Ireland, which brings us back to “WOW!” We arrived Sunday afternoon under sail and, while we were waiting for the harbor pilot to arrive, I was witness to a sight seldom seen in this age of mechanized vessels--five other tall ships, two close in with sails furled and three on the horizon under full sail were heading to our location. “WOW!” Thursday evening’s party for the crews of the ships was the second piece of the magic. Picture a thousand people from all corners of the world wearing their respective uniforms, coming together as fellow sailors breaking into a mass attempt at the Macarena to everyone's delight and amusement.

Seaman Marshall Douglas is a safety observer in the tops during sail stations evolutions.

And finally, Saturday, July 9th, the day of anticipation, the start of the race. We cast off all lines and begin the three-hour transit down the Suir River to the open sea. Through the morning haze, I see five large tall ships ahead and in some stretches, I manage a glimpse of at least eight more behind, escorted by hundreds of small craft and cheered on by thousands of people along the shore all with one goal in mind, to see a bit of history. As we hit the open sea, the sun breaks and the mist burns off while we get sorted into the proper starting queue only to sit upon the proverbial painted ocean until late evening. Even the wind dance by the Captain fails to coax Mother Nature out of a breath of wind. As the sun sets in the west with all of the ships silhouetted, all I can say is “WOW!” And it was the mighty barque and her sisters large and small that brought us all together.

My time onboard is half over and I am the better person for what I've seen. If the next two months are anywhere near as amazing as the first two, I'll have to come up with a word even better than “WOW!” Now if we can only find that bit of wind to start this race with …

09 July 2005 by Cmdr. Thomas Bostwick

(L to R) Boatswain's Mate 3rd Class Randall Patterson, Seaman Hannah Amos, Boatswain's Mate 2nd Class Ted Hubbard, and Machinery Technician 2nd Class Wesley Grogan ease the jib sheets on the foremast

Harley riders like to say, “It’s not the destination, but the ride there.” How true for my trip this summer. Leaving from Phoenix, Ariz., and flying into London, England, to catch a train to Edinburgh, Scotland, to catch America’s Tall Ship USCG Barque Eagle in itself was a trip of a lifetime. Eagle and her crew are some of the finest I have ever had the honor of serving with. People asked me before leaving if I had ever been to sea before. Yes, back in 1979, I dropped out of college to join the Navy and see the world. I was stationed with the Marine Air Wing in El Toro, Calif. Then I was deployed on to the USS Midway, the last of the Navy’s non-nuclear aircraft carriers. Times were definitely different then compared to now. Being aboard a carrier as a HM3 to being on Eagle as a commander and the ship’s only physician is a BIG difference. From staying in crew quarters to a “stateroom,” from eating on the mess deck to the “ward room” is a change.

There are no real sick call hours on Eagle, as we are here 24/7. The mass majority of things are routine, ranging from seasickness to colds. On occasion, someone will be sea sick enough to need IV fluids and medications. There are the usual bumps and bruises. No major issues as of this writing, but there is still plenty of time to go on this deployment. The other day I did need to take a patient to another ship for services I could not provide on Eagle. It was the Navy vessel USS Saipan. What a sickbay she has. Four operating rooms, at least a 50-bed medical ward with a four bed ICU. With radiograph, lab capabilities, and ancillary services that compare to many hospitals, I was in emergency medicine heaven. The wardroom sat 90 officers and had more food than I knew what to do with. When I returned “home” to Eagle, however, I immediately sighed in relief to see my two trusted health services specialists and tiny but homey sick bay. I knew I wouldn’t trade them or this place for the best-equipped emergency department in the world. The wardroom in Eagle sits 12 officers that are more family than shipmates.

One last view of Waterford as Eagle sets out to sea to race to Cherbourg.

The deck force on Eagle is some of the hardest working individuals I have met. Liberty will be called for everyone, save deck force. Yet, these hard working Coasties continue with a smile and are always willing to help a shipmate from the lowest to highest ranks with getting their quals done or just to explain the workings of America’s Tall Ship.

The cadets are wonderful young men and women. They remind me so much of the medical students and interns I have taught or worked with. Of course out here, they are teaching the “old dog” some new tricks about sailing vessels, lines, lookouts, and helm.

Traveling around Europe on a sailing ship is a trip of a lifetime. Many have come to Europe from America, but not many have done so on a sailing ship. The ports I have been to so far were just awesome. Being a part of the 200th anniversary of the Battle of Trafalgar leaves me speechless. Ireland was outstanding. The Irish people are some of the friendliest I have ever met. They would offer help without being asked. From the Waterford Crystal factory to kissing the Blarney Stone, who could ask for more. Of course, I miss my girlfriend, my kids, and my family. This trip could not be possible without their support and love. I know that when I get home they will be there waiting for me. I could not be more blessed with the love from my entire family. Thank you Eagle and her crew, cadets, and temporary active duty crew for the memories of a lifetime.

09 July 2005 by 3/c Lisa Myatt

The Executive Officer, Commander Andrea Marcille, stands one of her last watches on Eagle before she departs Eagle in Cherbourg, France.

At 4:45 a.m., we heard "Reveille, Reveille, Reveille, up up all hands!" That is how we start our day every day. However, today it was exceptionally early in order for us to get underway from Waterford. One more port down with two still to go. I would say that we have just embarked on our most exciting leg of our journey as we participate in the Tall Ships Race with ships from all over the world. Ireland was a really culturally diverse port call due to the variety of crews participating in the race. At the crew's party on Thursday night, I saw a multitude of people from Oman, Uraguay, Russia, Bulgaria, France, and even America, doing such dances as the Macarena together. Everyone was brought together through interests in sailing.

The operations department, charged with Eagle's navigation, is briefed by Operations Officer Lt. Aurora Fleming before the race to France.

Yesterday, I discovered that there are a lot of Irishmen in Ireland because I gave tours to more than 4,000 visitors. I passed the day explaining why we have "six wheels" what the "fuzzy stuff" is and covered myself in blue ink from stamping Eagle onto hundreds of souvenir programs. A full day of tours was followed by a fireworks display that they called "Suirfire." [Ed. note: The River Suir is prounced "Sure." Also, the locals pronounce Waterford as "Water." The ford simply disappears.] One of my favorite stops in Ireland was the Waterford Crystal Factory, where I got to see actual craftsmen working on the crystal. I never really appreciated crystal before finding out how much work actually goes into every single glass or bowl. Afterwards, the tour let out into the gallery/gift shop where I was extremely tempted to drop hundreds of Euros on a vase.

With Ireland behind us, now it is time to look forward to a week of racing to France. Some people are simply counting the days until the long-awaited summer leave. I am enjoying my time in Europe, but nothing can beat a little time at home.

09 July 2005 by 3/c Bronwen Tomb

Boatswain's Mate 2nd Class Richard Kitchen hoists Eagle's largest Ensign.

Today we’re leaving Waterford, sadly. Ireland is a nice country, full of friendly people who always wait patiently in line, wave their arms and handkerchiefs at the passing ships, and talk incessantly about food. When I was mess cooking, everyone walking by asked what was for dinner. It makes sense that they always talk about food, because their food is so good. Even food that we have in the U.S., like bread or cheese or pizza, is better here.

The tall ship festival drew large crowds to town every day. There were live bands playing on nearly every street in the evenings. There were billboards and advertisements for the festival all over the place, and in one store I saw a perfect replica of the Eagle made out of cake. Before the fireworks last night, the crowd was so thick I could hardly move. In addition to the Irish, tall ship enthusiasts there were a variety of internationals from the other ships. The Russians seemed to be especially numerous and especially sociable.

Now we’re going to race the other tall ships to Cherbourg. I’m looking forward to that because I like sail stations better than training. My favorite thing to do is climb the rigging.

09 July 2005 by 3/c Samantha Gordon

The cadet glee club sings the National Anthem on July 4th during afternoon quarters.

Eagle has been my home for the past four weeks. We’ve sailed in and out of ports all over Europe, each time stopping to show the locals “America’s Tall Ship.” I’ve given many tours, and every time someone asks, “So am I in America yet?” I smile and laugh, “Why yes of course, welcome to America, land of the free.” The next question is always, “Are you enjoying Eagle?” Once again I smile and laugh. My only reason to sum it all up is, “Well, it has been an experience.” I wouldn’t be able to explain to everyone how much I longed to know about their experiences and their country.

Eagle's mooring place gave a great view of downtown Waterford and other tall ships as they transited up the narrow river.

Ireland, where I’ve dreamed about my whole life, was a beautiful sight. On my run into the Irish countryside, I finally felt like I could let loose. I didn’t have to worry about people watching me, judging me, and making sure I was always on task. It was just me, a few friends, and our fearless leader. I think this is why every Irishman I encountered was so relaxed, full of life and happy. It was on this run that I was able to gather the best souvenirs I could find, some small flowers and clovers from a lush green field and even though I searched for several minutes, I could not find a four-leaf clover. However, I truly enjoyed what I saw of Ireland and hope to come back someday for a real taste of the Irish. Maybe even find that lucky clover. However, it is time to start the race to Cherbourg, France. While there, I know I’ll get the chance to work on my French and answer those questions as before about the great America’s Tall Ship, Eagle.

09 July 2005 by 3/c Matt Pekoske

Boatswain's Mate 1st Class Spencer Greer climbs to the cross trees on the foremast.

We left Ireland early this morning after having what I thought was our best port call yet. Many of us went to Dublin, Cork, or just stayed right in Waterford to enjoy the festival. Castles were a popular attraction, as many made the trip to Blarney to see the castle and kiss the Blarney stone. The stone was not as big or as glamorous as many of us had imagined, but we still had a great time exploring the castle and the surrounding garden. The castle was real interesting since it hadn’t been modernized at all to look like a museum. It was left much like it was so long ago. This made it all the easier to bump your head, not that I would know anything about that. The tall ships festival in Waterford was a lot of fun. They had tours of other tall ships, food, and concerts in the streets. It was very crowded and Eagle proved to be a popular attraction for many people at the festival. So as we leave Waterford today and make our three-hour journey down the river, we look forward to the race from here to France, and our two remaining port calls. The next fourteen days will be a true test of the knowledge we have learned thus far and will be a great end to an already amazing summer.

09 July 2005 by 3/c Jim Ellsworth

Erin Shaw, Captain Shaw's daughter, shows her patriotism inbound to Waterford.

Despite the fact that we were only underway for a few days between Portsmouth and Waterford, I definitely felt like I needed this port call badly. I am not exactly sure why, though my very little liberty in Portsmouth and the rather bad weather probably had a lot to do with it. Traveling up the river Waterford was a long trip, but it was absolutely gorgeous. Having never been to Ireland, I really fell in love with it at first sight, as did many of my classmates. Once we got in, my family was waiting on the pier and I was able to spend a few enjoyable days with them, catching up and exploring the island. This reinforced my love for the place, but also made me more anxious for leave, now two weeks away. Upon returning to the ship, I found that everyone seemed to have had great times as well in Ireland. Leaving was something no one really wanted to do, but all of the ships leaving the harbor in a long line were quite a sight. We paraded past the small town of Dunmore East, where, from what I hear, the President of Ireland was watching. I hope my family made it, too, though I was unable to pick them out in the massive crowds that enveloped the little seaside community. The excitement has faded a bit now, since the race has been continuously put off due to a complete lack of wind. At this point, I am ready to get going, as I think the race should be a good experience for us, even though the competition is stiff and the numerous sail stations will be taxing. It will give me a good opportunity to finish up the last of my requirements, leaving me free to look ahead to Cherbourg, the last leg, Lisbon, and finally, home.

09 July 2005 by 3/c Linden Dahlkemper

Three cheers are given to Seaman Rebekah May by the crew as she departs for marine safety technician school after two years on Eagle.

Foreign relations are a wonderful thing, don’t you think? I mean, if it weren’t for PR, I wouldn’t have delivered invitations to Eagle’s Captain’s reception, meeting with crews representing various countries. We got a tour of the Jeannie Johnson, an Irish replica of an emigrant ship, 95% wood and probably similar to one my ancestors traveled to America on. We stopped on the Sagres II, a Portuguese sister ship, almost identical to Eagle with some minor differences, like a bar solely for cadet use. The crews of various Dutch ships spoke perfect English, while I preferred to revert to German on the Alexander von Humboldt, hailing from Bremen. Its sails are bright green for the Beck’s brewery. Several classmates of mine and I had an interesting exchange on the Bello Poule.

Seaman Clay Wilbanks stands lookout on the way into Waterford.

First of all, was it smart to send three cadet women onto a French ship? The captain would not leave without us accepting a drink. So, through his broken English interlaced heavily with French, a friend and I had water while another friend, in pure diplomatic spirit, politely stomached some tomato juice. Luckily, I took an intimidating male shipmate, 3/c Burner, probably the buffest guy I know, on the Kruzenshtern, a Russian monster of cold war-type intimidation. The Russians are friendly, but baffled by a woman in uniform. And I always thought Communism had an equality side to it. Oh well, after several hours and some Indonesian tea, I was back in America, eating roast beef sandwiches and shrimp cocktail at the reception. The whole mission was accomplished in our trops uniform. I guess they needed someone to be the face of the U.S., so they only sent the best. The fabulous 14! To all the families of women in Atlantic berthing area, I’m having a great time hanging out with your girls!